Rear axles on these are designed to work properly with the wheel dish out. Some 50 HP and higher tractors have front axles that are designed with the strength and steering geometry to handle reversed wheels (dish out) without damage but these small ones are definitely not. That causes a huge overload on the outer bearings and the leverage ends up causing seal leakage, excessive wear and breakage at the outer 4WD parts. The change in steering geometry requires much more steering effort, more rapid wear and breakage of steering parts. I see the loader is not sized properly to the tractor with respect to the distance between the loader and the front tires when the bucket is down. Especially on a tractor this small and with such a short wheelbase, that distance should be as short as is possible without hitting the tires. Yes, you need the maximum safe ballast in the rear; fluid, wheel weights and rear weight. If you don't already have one, get a manual for that tractor (or the comparable Ford/NH) and follow the guidelines for the maximum safe ballast. So glad you didn't get hurt and hope the tips you're getting here help.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Black Tire Paint - by Staff. I have been fortunate in that two of my tractors have had rear tires that were in great shape when I bought the tractor. My model "H" even had the old style fronts with plenty of tread. My "L" fronts were mismatched Sears Guardsman snow tires, which I promptly tossed. Well, although these tires were in good shape as far as tread was concerned, they looked real sad. All were flat, but new tubes fixed that. In addition to years and years of scuffing and fading, they had paint splattered on
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