125,000 the front end will be gone. You will need to replace bushings, ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rod ends. I did it to mine. Drives like new now. I also put a solid steel steering stabilizer on mine and that tightened things up significantly in the steering box.
Lift pump- I have heard all kinds of stories and you will always rememeber the worst. Mine went out at 144,000 miles. Died in the driveway. Most engines continue to pull suction from the tank and keep running. The lower pressure cavitates the VP44 injection pump and it dies. Also the electronics on the pump had some issues. Mine has 200K and is still on the original injection pump and second lift pump, knock on wood.
Transmission - My truck doesn't have a chip. Never has. I get 21 hwy miles. 3.55 rearend. I can pull my Super M Farmall and it does fine. Now if I was going to pull more, I would get a standard transmission, or maybe have it rebuilt. Key here is keeping it cool.
Also, turn the key on off on off on and read the codes that come up in the odometer. Should so PCU and ECU codes.
dieseltruckresource.com is also another good resource.
The 24 valve dodge is a good choice, just be ready to do a little mechanical work every now and then. I am hoping my truck will go to 500K
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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