Bringing things up to current code is not always an improvement. Much depends on exactly what you're doing.
I've in New York and I'm sure wells vary by regions. But, at least here - I've got some experience since I've worked with a few well drillers over the past 40 years. Also have several properties with dug wells, pit-wells, and upgraded drilled wells.
Here, dug wells are - just dug wells. Pretty self-explanatory. The first drilled wells were done two ways.
One way - the casing top got buried below the frost line - 5-6 feet down. So, if the pump went bad - you had to dig it up to repair.
The other way - was to built a well-pit with a top on it - again - with the well-top below the frost line. This way, if repairs were needed, you could take the top off, go down into the pit, and work on it. Problem is - this pit can act like a funnel when the roof leaks and pollute the well.
This is the reason why modern code requires a "pitless adapter" and a buried well casing. The name "pitless" comes from its ability to eliminate the need for a pit. It enables a well to be drilled with casing installed, and a pump istalled and removed - from below the frost line - but accessed from above. It's just a brass, take-apart 90 degree valve held together by gravity.
With your well - as you describe it. If the water is still good, I have no idea why anyone wants to throw lime in there. Sounds crazy to me. If you have existing well casing down in the bottom, all you need to do is add more and extend the casing a few feet above ground. Steel or PVC. Make sure you have a pitless adapter installed, and then fill in the hole. I've done many, it's a one-day job.
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