I change/repair the tire with the wheel mounted on the tractor. To me this is alot easier for me.
I use a wood splitting maul with a single jack hammer for breaking the bead. I dulled the maul edge with a sander. I place the maul edge at the steel too bead joint, tap easy once, move 3" and tap again, repeat until the bead pops, about 18". Repeat to pop the inside bead. I have yet failed to break the bead using this method.
Don't try and force the bead with harder/repeated hammer blows as it just won't help. The bead moves away very slowly, one blow at a time. I always had the bead pop with-in 18".
I then use two 24", 7/8" crow bars with the nose sanded to work the tire off the rim. I since have bought a 30" Kline tire spoon that works well on drop center rims.
Depending on the tire, some times I use a 50/50 mix of dish soap/water to help with hard mounting places.
It takes me about 1hr to break a tire down, patch and replace the tube and I'm crippled up.
I agree, drill a new stem hole and patch the old hole. Grind/sand to a very smooth finish.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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