We figure 1 SCREW per sq ft. all said and done. Always every nail perloin, and on the bottom of the roof we go on each side of the rib, and every lap on the top of the lap. All intermediate gets one on the back side of every lap ..in the flat about 1/2 inch from the lap joint. Then in addition we put one in every lap. These are the places the wind gets the first wiggle. Then of course behind every rib we place a screw.
We have'nt used neow nails for twenty years plus. I do have some you can have if you so choose.
We get lots of chances to redo metal roofs that our competition has just done. Of course they think that their project should be first in line, as more will blow off if I don't get their right away. We also hear coments like we sure arn't getting them back cause they charge from the time they leave ....till the time they get back, and you live right here an all. Yea, you guessed it ...we go and do it anyway as soon as we can, and often don't charge them because they got screwed pretty bad the first time.
Do it right ther first time so ya don't have to deal with it again.
If you are troubled trying to get the so called ...aggressive screws started through the metal, you may want to rent a Pasload lp fired finish nailer and punch the holes. Just don't put any finish nails in it and dry fire it...probably best use a chalk line. No it will not hurt the nail gun.
Use a 1/4" nut runner of good quality. not the two dozen for 10 cents ones. The better ones have a magnet in the nut runner socket. Keep all metal shavings out of your socket, and often you need to recess the magnet by smacking a screw head into the socket with a hammer to recess the magnet a little more. do it on the new one right away.
Walk ONLY ON THE NAIL PERLOINS unless you weigh less than twenty pounds.
We also use a 2 x 6 on the top and bottom, on top it is advantage for ridge cap, bottom is good for over the roof eve spout hangers.
I don't understand the plastic, and never heard of that one before. I can't think of any reason you would ever need it.
I know you did'nt ask for all this, but I thought it might be helpful.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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