First off that center of draft information will not work for any plow of less than a 3-12"and then only with certain models of tractors as to follow it for a 2-12" plow you would have to be able to set the tractor tread to the width of a 42" cut lawnmower. If you are ysing a small standard tread tractor that has a 48" center to center of tire wheel tread then it will come close but not right on. Now if you are using a tractor like the wide tread F20 farmall with an 80" tread you will be way off even for a 4 bottom plow. You have to just set it to pull straight with the plow hitched to the center of the tractor and for the tilt of tractor with right wheel in furrow if any hills and a rowcrop tractor you need at least a 66" tread width to avoid a roll over. We had 2 of the No 52 plows in 2-12" sizes and used a 66" wheel tread behind a Farmal H, US A John Deere, late John Deere B, Mid series John Deere B and I also pulled it with my Ferguson TO 30 on that tractors 52" tread but it was a low tractor and the risk of roll over was minimal and most was on flater ground. That plow was made in 2-12"; 2-14" & 2-16" size bottoms but have never seen one with 16" bottoms and most were 12" in my area. If you wanted the wider bottom you bought the heavier frame 4B plow. Set your wheel tread acording to what you feel comfortable with and go from there but set the hitch for the center of tractor.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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