I think you should use galvanized hardware for treated lumber to resist rust.
I assume the trailer has flat steel surfaces to attach the floor to and that you have prepared the surface and repainted it and have rewelded any cracks.
My observation is that the treated lumber, which has been pressure treated green, will warp as it dries unless it is fastened securely. There is treated lumber availiable which has been dried before treating and If you haven't already got your lumber I would look into that.
Commercial trailer makers use a self tapping special screw. Don't know if they are availiable to the public. They are flush with the surface of the wood when installed. Don't know if they are availiable galvanized.
I don't like to use carriage bolts. While they have a round top and the cargo won't catch on them, the soft lumber won't hold the bolt tight to retighten sometime in the future or remove if you need to change the boards. You will have to cut them off. Hex head machine bolts with a washer under them can be tightened, retightened, or removed at will, but they may catch on the cargo. If you are using 2 inch thick boards you could counter sink the holes so as to get the bolt heads below wood level, using machine bolts and washers.
Assuming you are using 6 or 8 inch wide boards, you need 2 bolts for every support and 2 in each end. Probably 1 bolt in every other cross support would be sufficient. Don't know how wide apart your cross members are, but on commercial trailers they are 18 inches apart.
That's the only choices I'm aware of. I'll repeat the advice to use galvanized hardware. Wouldn't hurt to grease the bolts to resist rust also.
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