What you probably have is glazed tile, real popular in our area. I would guess I could find some for you. They vary in size as they were extruded, and cut with a wire. You can see sometimes where the block are bent down on the ends where the wire cut the hard clay dirt.
We make them at the (antique show)Plagman barn / NEIFAA near Garber Iowa. We however do not fire the block as we never get enough help. We don't even have a kiln and probably never will. The last few years we have been to short of help to make block.
We used to fix alot of buildings & silos, but not so much anymore. We always paint the tile surface with mason cement and water in a laytex paint consistancy. If you have a drywall testure gun, it will only take a couple of munites to spray it on all surfaces. This mortar paint gives you a real rich mix at contact point. Best I can guess is to throw the mud into the cavity with a laytex gloved hand, it will stay where put once you get on to it. Then you may want to stucko the whole busted surface inside and out.
Manure on these tile can make them very unpredictable if you ever tear it down. The tile silos will sometimes crumble once they start to fall like a tree.
If you choose to buy the premixed mortar mix, be sure to add mason powder to richen up the mix because you are buying mostly sand with a sprinkle of mason cement.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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