John, you and all here are absolutely the most helpful people I know when it comes to a wide range of topics besides our old tractors.
Electrical is not my strong point, yet in my building construction management/general contracting career, I've dealt with it enough to highly respect all aspects electrical equipment, distribution, safety etc., but usually rely on someone who specializes in mechanical, electrical, plumbing, (M.E.P. as we call it) for more complex issues on job sites, same carries through with basic electrical theory for things in ones home.
I think I understand what you mentioned about that neutral, but to be honest I'm not well versed on what the neutral actually does, I'd think I would highly benefit from learning a little more about electrical theory, no doubt. I think my concern would be from the existing 250/125 3 prong outlet with the #4 AWG Alcoa conductor to the existing 200 amp panel, and I would definitely follow what you describe, there is a schematic on the 200 amp panel, I can figure out what type of existing conductor that #4 AWG ALCOA is and believe I could find a schematic for the Miller NT 251.
The conductor I bought has RED, WHITE and BLACK, and from the way I read the schematic in the receptacle package, the WHITE would be the neutral, RED & BLACK would be the hot legs, ( boy a set of those would be nice sight about now LOL !) but all humor aside, there is a conductor for the bare equipment ground, well at least the AWG 6-3 wire I bought has 3 #6 conductors and a #10 solid bare ground, to match the plug ends which are 3 vertical slots with the D or U shaped ground ??? 4 pole, has the 2 hot legs, the neutral and the bare ground. I bought the receptacle to match, but that #4 AWG ALCOA conductor could be the wrench in the works if that bare ground, 4th pole is not present, and you need it to the panel, that existing #4 AWG ALCOA would need to have that 4th conductor,not sure if it does and please correct me if I am wrong about this.
My existing receptacle in the garage is 3 slots only, one vertical slot with the other 2, like a dryer or range plug,receptacle kind of looks like a letter Y, says 250/125 volt - 5O amp, is also on a 50 amp breaker at the 200 amp panel. I figured the right thing to do would be to switch that receptacle out to match the generator and plug ends so they are all the same, thinking now, unless the existing matches, I'd be better off, (safer) going straight to the panel if I understand correctly, as the existing may not have the equipment ground. OOFFLA ... long day here, but I think I understand this a little better, much appreciated your and everyone elses input on this.
Looking back into the bonding to the iron frame on the generator, this confuses me a bit, but I think the generators schematic would help here, I never thought of this scenario with the 2 pole switch, I do know this generator is compatible to be wired into a residential service, and I think there is a schematic for this application.
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