Familiar enough with blades on the front these large tractors, most dairy places here have open sileage pits and use them, storage pits are usually contained and tarped off, they run up onto the pile and push off.
The snow removal thing, just have to mark off or know where any edge catching things might be in your work areas if that set up is rigid, I used to catch 2nd shift pushing snow at a local mall years back, (that was always my biggest concern). We did this additional shift as needed for the site work outfit I was employed by, commercial snow removal and boy does a manhole, catch basin frame & grate or unseen curb do some damage if you hit them with any speed and it don't give, and the blade does not give. One guy hit one of these during one of the shifts I was on, manhole frame & grate, tossed him out of the seat into the winshield, parked that fiat allis loader and went to the Emergency room at the local hospital in need of some stitches. Trip back type Western Snow Plow blades on the truck mounted plows seemed to react better, he caught that one good, nothing you probably don't know already. Place was marked out pretty good too, but as the saying goes sh$t happens. My neighbor used to do the local walmarts with his 3150 fwd and jd loader, and other snow equipment, sure did a number on the bucket, he went and got a 544 or 644 JD payloader, installed a wide carrier type blade, kind, like what you see commonly at airports and other large areas to be cleared, much more productive, less wear to the bucket. Did not take him long to make that change after the bucket was rebuilt, place was a cornfield for years, at least he got the snow removal contract out of it.
Having spent several years of my construction career in the seat of dozers and other equipment, doing fine grading the only thing I would be worried about for using a blade on a large ag type tractor, would be ground pressure, and soil conditions. If you can do this work while it is dry, hard, set the pitch of that blade just right so it does not want to agressively engage the ground, taking thin layers when doing any cutting, no rocks or harsh unforseen things in the soil, ought to work well if the tires don't rut it up. If the ground is soft and the front end of that tractor too heavy, it will make a mess, create large ruts, probably nothing you don't already know, been there many times when I needed a track type tractor, only thing on site had wheels, you make it work, sometimes you don't, soil conditions dictate that. The only thing that would be hard on the tractor is if you try to take thick layers when cutting or push too much loose material at one time, loose material will probably be easy for this set up, as long as you don't try to push too much. If your soils and conditions are dry and hard enough when you do this work, might be ok, but would'nt you need to have tilt and angle each way, for what I assume would be fine grading and or surface drainage type work? LGP dozer would work best, when dry and hard, regular gauge, and or standard track pad width would be best, if you have a lot of that work to be done, might not be so easy to decide, always good to get multi use out of any piece of equipment, just that dirt work might a little tough depending on your set up, soil conditions and your skills at grading.
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Today's Featured Article - Usin Your Implements: Plow and Disc - by Curtis Von Fange. Introduction: Dad was raised during the depression years of the thirties. As a kid he worked part time on a farm in Kansas doing many of the manual chores. Some of the more successful farmers of that day had a new time saving device called a tractor. It increased the farm productivity and, in general, made life easier because more work could be done with this 'mechanical beast'. My dad dreamed that some day he would have his own tractor with every implement he could get. When he rea
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