DOH!! You like trying your luck a bit, eh? Definitely figure out where maximum power is on that engine and do your gearing so that you have the tractor running at it's point of maximum power or just above it's peak. That will be a load on it. Personally I think I'd run sprockets as you're planning rather than belts. You really can't afford the friction losses on a belt with the power you have, on top of which if you have snow or rain you'll have wet slipping belts. Gears would be better again, but sprockets are cheap and easy. I think I'd go with a #60 chain and a 12-15 tooth driven sprocket, so that will leave the driver between 80 and 100 teeth give or take a tooth or two. You could probably get by with less (smaller pitch) chain... if you can source good reliable chain (lol), or conditions are perfect. Load cycles on generators can apply so pretty big shock loads, so you really need some overkill in the drive unless you like fixing it in the dark. Some resistance to shock loads would be the main benefit to a belt drive, but you need to keep it dry. I think the shaft sizes you're talking about are fine for the power you're dealing with. Other than that the shaft size doesn't really matter beyond getting the corect bore sprockets.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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