THe clutch needs 1.125" freeplay (between trans cover and pedal stem) when pushing down lightly. If more than this, adjust the big push rod to make it right. If it still is not releasing. Do this. (and be very careful to do it safely) Point the tractor towards open ground. (field or lawn, not inside or pointing toward your wife's car) put it in second gear (or third) and start the tractor. It will be moving forward, so be ready for that. Now with it going , push the clutch in all the way, and step on the brakes. It might take several tries. Higher gears also make it a bit easier 3rd or 4th, but it will go faster, and might not start as easily. If driving it around gets it unstuck, Cool. If not you might need to remove the belly pump from the bottom, and remove the clutch. All can be done from underneath. use the Search for box to find procedure for changing the clutch, and more on stuck clutches, and pilot bearings. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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