Finding a new pump might be both pricy and long term. The easier answer is to check the original pump as follows. The gear to housing clearance should be less than .001" A bit over that with no scoring is OK. The cover should have a clearance of .0005" to a max of .001". The cover is cleranced to the gear depth with thin gaskets (very thin!) used as shims as well as gaskets. The cover probably needs to be flattened on a piece of 200 then 320 then 400 grit silicon carbide on a flat glass surface. Use rotation and multi direction strokes to assure flatness. The shaft bushings should be also less than .001 difference from the shaft. the new crank should take care of oiling, but to be sure, use a squirt oil can in the oil pressure line threaded hole to put oil into the gallery. It will begin to cone out of holes where the gallery takes it. With the crank out, the oil will really pour out. after it is in, the crank main caps and rod caps will hold (with assembly lube on the bearings I hope) the oil in and the squirt can pressure should be harder to do and oil will come out of the cam bearings. If you are nervous about the upper end, the engine must be rolled over such that the hole in the cam bearing lines up with the block port to allow the oil to go up. Good luck, I hope this helps. JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
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