There were two things that kept my '86 fuel injected F150 from starting.
First it had a high voltage ignition system that would blow microscopic holes in the distributor cap, then it wouldn't run on foggy days. A new cap and rotor fixed it for a few years.
But what got it worst was the fuel pressure regulator that split the diaphragm and filled the engine with gasoline through the vacuum lines. Trying to turn it over with too much liquid in the cylinder did nasty things (I didn't take it apart to find out the details), and it didn't have the second fuel filter so the pump kept rated pressure on the injection supply line even though a lot was going to the intake manifold.
And that was back in 1999. I'd replace the fuel preessure regulator before it wrecks your engine like it did mine. Just on general principles.
If the pump runs long, its not building up pressure for the pressure switch to shut it off. Either the pressure switch, the pressure regulator, or the pump isn't working right. The pressure switch and pressure regulator are a lot easier to replace than the pump.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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