Weight carrying is the simple basic hitch, where the entire tongue weight of the trailer rests on the drawbar and hitch ball. In that case, the load is taken up [pretty uch by the rear suspension and in the case of heavy trailer can significanlt reduce the weight on the steering axle.
Weight distributing hitches use a special drawbar and had fittings on the trailer. Adjustable bars are used between the fittings on the trailer and the fittings on the drawbar, with the effect that they take the sag out and get things pretty much back up to level. The way they work is that they redistribute part of the tongue weight by taking it of the rear supension of your p/u and distributing it between the trailer axles and the p/u steering axle.
If you want to tow a 10k trailer on that hitch frame, you'd need to seriously consider a weight distributing set-up. The drawbar fits into your 2" receiver like any other, and the fittings can be bolted onto most trailers.
As for class of hitch, it always used to be that a class IV was good for 7,000/10,000, but the factory hitches sold as Class IV as part of factory trailer-towing packages the last little while seem to be stamped for 5k.
Myself, I really don't have any compunctions about hauling a properly balanced 7k trailer on my 5k factory hitch. For awkward loads and heavier trailers, I do have the rigging to use weight distribution if I feel it's necessary or appropriate.
So that's about the factory hitch frames. Reese, Draw-Tite (same company, I heard ??? but dunno) and others sell after market hitch frames rated and stamped for 7k+. If you're going to be doing a lot of hauling, or are in a business like landscaping where you might tend to draw DOT attention, you might want to look into one of those.
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