If you're only going that deep, drive it by hand. Well head is 3 or 4 feet, compression coupling, 5 foot section of pipe, compression coupling, and hydrant or keep adding as many compression couplings and sections of pipe as you need. And don't confuse a regular coupler with a compression coupler cause they aint the same thing. And don't forget the pipe dope. But because of the hydrant are going to want to bore to below the frost line. I've gone 25 feet by hand with 2" pipe but that's a workout. Can probably rent a hand driver from your local hardware. Is like a 3 foot piece of solid axle with a 100 pound weight on it. Get an extra compression coupling to drive it cause its going to take a beating. The shaft goes down into the pipe as a guide, and lift and drop the dead weight, or if you're ambitious and have to go 25 feet or so, lift and slam down on it as hard as you can...but watch them fingers. The deeper I got, the less it drove...like about an inch or half inch per slam. It works though. Quite a workout. Good for the biceps. Gets the blood pressure right up there and makes you kind of sweaty. I've done it a few times. Smokin and gettin old don't help much.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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