One word of caution -- if you have a tire on that rim, let the air out and remove the valve core from the stem before applying much heat that can transmit through the rims to the air in the tire.
Where they're not threaded you're ahead of the game.
What the heat does is break up and crumble the corrosion between the bolt and the hole. I usually give it a good heating all over, both the bolts and the surrounding iron and let that cool. If it needs more, I'll give it another shot, focusing on the bolt. If you've got the heads on the other side, put heat to the head until it's mostly red, and let that cool. While it's still good and hot but not necessarily sizzling, give a shot of whatever your favorite penetrating lubricant may be, wherever you can get it (around the bolt head, between the pats, anyplace you can get it and keep applying it. As it cools you can see the stuff draw in to the small spaces opening up as the corrosion crumbles. Give the surrounding area more heat, starting well away from the bolt if it needs a third shot, to expand the outer part, then go for it while the outer part is still hot.
If you have an O/A set up, you know more about how to heat with that than I do. Myself, I use just the home-owner handheld torch with Mapp gas (hotter, faster) instead of propane.
For driving them out, another old bolt (you'll bung up the threads at the end) the same size or one size down is useful. If you have a good drift of a size that will work that's preferable. What I'm saying is you may still need to wallop these things to get them started and I have a box full of bent and chipped taper punches as testament to what not to use.
In your particular situation, it may also be useful, in addition to any heat, to try tapping a wedge, pry bar or chisel between the parts to be separated, if you can find a place to fit one that will let you swing a hammer or get good prying leverage. That might pop it loose enough to drive them out more easily.
Patience and persistence in the right balance is key -- swearing or other verbal lubrication is allowed and can be therapeutic. Keep the hammer rule always in mind -- Hit with progressively bigger hammers until you break something, then back down one size. ;8^)
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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