I just went through this on my 2520 hub to rim wedge bolts. Out of the 16 wedge bolts 10 I got out by putting a nut on the bolt and beating it out with the maul. The other six would not budge. I tried drilling but kept chipping the drill bits, resharpinging, etc. Finally I said there has to be a better way so I torched off the bolt head on the back side and cut the threads off the bolt on the front side. Now with the remaining bolt flush with the casting on both sides I heated the bolt from both ends cherry red trying to drive as much heat into the bolt as possible. The casting did not turn red, the rust was enough of an insulator. I did this a couple of times, let the bolt completly cool and then drove it out. I never dreamed rust could be such a good weld. Now I'm soaking the 3 pt arms in penetrating oil before I go at them with the torch. Paul
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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