I had an OLD steam engine guy teach me this trick and it has worked every time. He used his steamers for years and worked on that kind of things for over 60 years. Trust me, boilers have the worst stuck threaded items you will ever find next to exhaust manifolds. He said heat the bolt to a low red (just below cherry red) and keep it there for a while to let the heat "soak" into the threads all the way down to the bottom, that expands the metal of the bolt and the metal around it. Then while wearing thick leather gloves take a wet rag (I use an Ice cube)and lightly quench the bolt which will shrink the bolt (and also not let it twist off because it is hot and elastic) when the bolt is cooled for a couple seconds then put the wrench to it and bump it loose and if it binds, then bump it back tight, keep up the back and forward movement till it comes out. If it starts squeaking, re heat and start over. use no liquids of anykind as 99% of the time the threads are so tight and clogged with debris it won't get in there anyway and it will cool the surrounding metal which will make it tighter again. Now for the bad news, this will be hard to do on the broken off and flush bolt you have so you may have to heat the surrounding area to chery red(to expand it) around the hole and use an easy out. In this case, keep the heat off the bolt as much as possible and cool the tip of the easy out with ice to help shrink the bolt. Be careful not to use too much force, you do not want to snap off the easyout in there!
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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