First off was an Oliver 880 Diesel. Started hard, no low end, steel pan seat, no power steering, poor hydraulics with horrible placement for the controls. For general complaints. Blew two head gaskets, rear main, hydra power trashed so we removed it, PTO bearings twice, and the tranny went so we scrapped it for overall problems.
Didn't learn from the first. Bought an 1850 gas. Other than burning 10gal an hour, swallowing my teeth to pay for a fuel pump and Holley distributor. Rear main, timing gears, governor, carb, pto clutches, used to stick in gear all the time, the power steering didn't have enough in it to turn the wheels in soft soil, non-sychronized transmission, horrible toggle hydraulics that chattered, useless quick hitch 3pt thing that I welded shut, thermostat that cost $80 to replace. Barely had more power than our 1967 - 3020 Deere. The final straw was when my dad caught his foot between the hydraulics that were conviently placed between your legs on the floor and the shifter that was in the middle of nowhere and took a nose dive off the platform onto the barn floor. That was the last night it sat inside, the rest of it's life on our farm was by the road with a for sale sign.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
... [Read Article]
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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