Ok Guys, Here is the latest poop. I took it back over there and the guy and I went for a short ride, he had it figured out pretty quick. When I put the engine back in he thought the motor mounts were a little iffy but he didn't replace them. (I wish he would have called me, I would have said change them out)Anyway, the tabs on the lower part of the mount are just barely hitting the frame brackets. It would vibrate some at high RPM in neutral but not much. Going down the road at about that RPM it was much more noticable. My guess is the added torque from driving is making one side contact a little harder and transmitting the slight vibration from the engine and amplifing it in the frame and body. The vibration went away as soon as I put the trans in neutral. The movement I noticed in the carrier bearing was the rubber support boot that was moving, not the bearing. ( I have never had one apart to know how they went together). The driveshaft is in excellent shape front to back. So New motormounts are ordered and hope that does it.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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