Initially I wanted to try subsoiling to see what it would do for crops. I bought a one shank 3 point hitch unit and did maybe 5 acres. Takes for ever!!! I think the thing is at least 24" long and I probably ran it 14" - 16" deep. Took all of 65 horse power with a weighted tractor. That was probably too deep. I thought there was some advantage with drainage and water uptake. The next year I bought a 3 shank on 38" spacings. Pull it with a 130 horse power tractor. Traction is more of an issue than power. Certainly a fall tool. In my area the key is getting the water into the ground for plant moisture during the year. Secondly the moisture that goes into the ground in the fall freezes and further expands / lifts the soil. I did get some of my higher crop yields during the years I subsoiled. I think I got the best response on the tighter clay soils. So my plan is to do the clay knobs every other year. Some places the tractor will just come to a STOP!!! I have hit places where it just gets stuck in the ground and pulls the front end right up. Each time you subsoil it will pull easier. You do have to be careful of shallow tile lines. The only other problems I see is additional time and fuel and lastly the ground can get so loose after winter freeze that the nitrogen nurse tanks tend to sink in and leave deeper tracks. I don't want tracks in no - till so I haven't subsoiled in a couple of years. I have heard of the moles and how people have dramatically improved their soils. Good luck.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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