The great thing about HT is you don't need as many post as you think. I have one stretch along a creek bottom that is close to 500 yards with out a wood post any where but the corner braces. On flat ground a T-post will work every 50' to 75'. On hilly ground, put one where ever you need to, to keep the wires the correct space apart, off the ground, and close to the ground in low spots.
A few words of advice from some one who started putting it up on their own 10 years ago with out any clue as to what they were doing and learned things the hard way. Get 175,000 lb wire and not the 200,000 lb, it ties better and is much better to work with. Get the good pin lock insulators, not the kind that you have to twist 90 degrees to get on the wire and then have to snap or nail onto the post. Yes if you take'm off and on a few times you will lose the pin but a 10 penny nail works fine too, as long as you don't bend it where it will touch the post. I like the spinner tighteners better than the ratchet type, just don't skinp and think you can use them with a half inch ratchet wrench (this will make you loose your religion quick). And a last thought, start on the back side of the farm, where no one but you will see it. Till you get the hang of twisting and splice'n the stuff it won't look too pretty.
(oh just about forgot this, BUY OR BUM A SPINNING JENNY AND NEVER EVER FOR ANY REASON WHAT SO EVER, CUT THE BANDS ON A SPOOL IF IT AIN'T IN THE GENNY ALSO NEVER EVER TAKE A PART OF A SPOOL OUT OF SAID JENNY UNLESS YOU PUT AT LEAST 5 WRAPS OF DUCK TAPE AROUND IT IN ATLEAST 4 PLACES. Ever had a birds nest in side a fishing reel?)
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Today's Featured Article - The Ferguson System Principal An implement cutting through the soil at a certain depth say eight inches requires a certain force or draft to pull it. Obviously that draft will increase if the implement runs deeper than eight inches, and decrease if it runs shallower. Why not use that draft fact to control the depth of work automatically? The draft forces are
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