The connections for the internal regulated DELCO are: The stud marked Battery is connected with a heavy wire to the battery. If you want an amp meter it should go in this line. Amp meters MUST be wired correctly to be of any uses. The 1/4 inch blade terminal to the right of the Battery terminal should come from a switch 12 volt source. The ignition switch is a good place if you have one. I wired one up one time on a diesel without a ignition switch using a HOBB's switch in an oil pressure line. If the engine is a battery ignition you will need a diode or 10 ohm 10 watt resistor in this line. The next and last 1/4 inch blade connector to the right is connected to an UNswitch 12 volt source. This is the sense line of the regulator. Many people connect this terminal to the battery post on the alternator and the GM factory did it like this toward the end of the production of this alternator BUT IF YOU KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT VOLTAGE DROPS IN WIRING as I do, I like to connect this terminal as electrically close to the batteries positive terminal as possible. I normally connect to the battery side of the starter solenoid. 16 gauge wire is heavy enough wire the two blade terminal connections. The Battery terminal should have at least number 12 wire. 10 would be better. 8 would be even better. Since you are doing a retrofit, what ever heavy wire the tractor is equipped with should be OK.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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