I don't think that there is an undersize available. But a JD mechanic showed me how to use a few shims of pop can metal to shim the backside of the worn bearing half. It sounds awful, but here is a relatively slow speed bearing that needs a bit of improvement. I did buy the correct new bearing halfs from JD and then shimmed them to make up for some of the wear in the crank. If you mike the crank pin, you will find it is out of round. If you try the shim trick, then use a file to carefully take off a bit from the end of each bearing half you are shimming. This allows the bearing to come together to a smaller diameter. When you cut the shims, make them the same width as the bearing half, but about 2 inches short of the half circumference. If you go the full length of the backside of the bearing, it pushes the 2 ends of the bearing shell too close together. If you shim it, you've gotta drill the hole for the grease to get through to the working side of the bearing.
This ain't rocket science, just some old time mechanicking. My Dad used to have to do similar to the babbit crankshaft bearings on his 32 Chev when she began banging too hard...but he would just file off some from the ears of the rod bearing cap so the 2 halfs would come together tighter. Crude?? Yup!! But cheap fix...for a while.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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