We've got a large DC chest fridge at our camp. One 120 watt solar panel and a pair of batteries is more than enough to run it anytime we've been there. A few sunny days, and rainy days, it all balances out. But the DC Sundanzer chest fridge is pricey and supposed to be one the most efficent on the market for off-grid use. It's 8 cubic feet, 4 feet long by 26" wide and 3 feet high. On a 70F day it uses 140 watt hours, and if it's 90F it uses 300 watt hours. Amazing machine, but too big and too expensive for this mini-motorhome project. All we need is something that can stay cold for maybe up to 12 hours at at time. We never go any longer than that before we start the engine and drive. Then, the batteries get recharged. I don't want a gas/electric fridge because they draw too much current in electic mode. Most just use the electric to run a heater, that in turn, acts like a propane flame. Rube Goldgerg and power hungry. A cooler with ice also does the job. Just means we've got to keep buying ice, and having ice leaves less room for food.
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Today's Featured Article - Antique Tractor Wiring Basics - by Curtis von Fange. One of the most neglected parts of old tractors is the wiring. After sitting in the elements for half a century or more much equipment wiring has deteriorated to sparsely covered strands of copper or other metal. Plastic insulation has cracked, mice have eaten through the older clothed style coverings and the exposed wires have reacted to winter moisture and salts by turning blue and powdery. Terminal ends have corroded, rusted or just plain evaporated away. Aged wires not only keep an engin
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