Glen, yep youre right, Im against it lol cuz a little B will start n crank just fine if you use a good heavy duty highest rated 6 volt battery that will physically fit in the compartment (maybe consider an Optima AGM battery) PLUS 00 Gauge Battery n Starter n Ground cables BUT ITS YOUR TRACTOR N YOUR CHOICE Im NOT here to lecture, only help best I can.
YES a Magneto Ignition doesnt connect to any battery voltage source so theres no change regardless if 6 or 12 volts starts the tractor.
Nowwwwwwwww as far as wiring that GM 10 SI 3 wire alternator its a lil more tricky n different since its NOT a battery powered coil ignition, but heres how Id do it if you have a Magneto and IFFFFFF the Mag is like a Wico X that has an external kill switch stud/terminal. REMEMBER IM TAKING YOU AT YOUR WORD IT HAS A MAGNETO IGNITION
Id rig a Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) On/Off Toggle Switch on the dash. Id connect it so when its in the OFF position, one A side/throw of the switch conencts the mags kill terminal to case/frame ground (to shut tractor off) while the other B side/throw connects hot battery voltage NOWHERE,,,,,,,,, In the ON position, the mags kill terminal (on A side) connects NOWHERE (i.e. spark is live not shorted/killed so she can run) while the other B side/throw connects hot battery voltage to the alternators lil side No 1 terminal via a 10 to 50 ohm current limiting resistor. In ON position the switch (B side) sends 12 volts to the alternators No 1 lil side terminal via the resistor and the other A side isnt conencting the mags kill terminal to anything,,,,,,,In OFF position the b side isnt sending 12 volts to the alternator while ther A side/throw is grounding out the mags kill terminal.........
The alternators big rear output stud/terminal wires with a 10 gauge wire to the Load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter.
The alternators lil side No 2 terminal (voltage sensor) wires direct to the big rear output stud/terminal.
AGAIN this is for a Magneto system !!!!!!!!!!!
If you insist upon a voltmeter ???? (you already have an ammeter) it could wire to the ON throw (one that sends hot battery voltage to alternators lil side 1 terminal) on the switches b side and other voltmeter termianl to case frame ground.
NOTE you have to convert from factory original Positive gorund to Negative ground for that alternator !!!!!!!!!!! that means the ammeter leads need swapped/reversed or it will read bass ackwards
THIS POST ASSUMES YOU HAVE SOME BASIC ELECTRICITY KNOWLEDGE if not it would take too much time to spoon feed you n wire the whole thing for you over the net complete with diagrams etc. Hope this helps (SOOOOO much simpler to repair the exisiting 6 volt system n not cobble up n jury rig a tractor with an unsightly alternator MY OPINION lol)
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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