Posted by erikyater on May 26, 2009 at 13:47:59 from (72.84.35.250):
In Reply to: Cracked coil, why? posted by erikyater on May 24, 2009 at 21:40:15:
Today, I actually took a day off work to try and figure this out. I stopped at Napa, got the 12 volt coil that is stamped "For use without external resistor", so that problem is solved. It fired right up. So I checked the voltage at the battery to check the alternator, and it is driving my meter crazy flashing up over 1000 volts, so I quickly disconnected and shut her down in fear of cracking another coil and damaging the meter. I disconnected the alternator wires, started and ran off the battery, and still had wild readings. So thinking the alt could be somehow shorted throwing voltage on the ground, I completely loosened and took the belt off. I know some of you may worry I ran it like that for long, but I didnt even run it for 10 seconds, so I think Im okay without water pump for that long, but STILL had crazy readings at the battery. Decided to throw a meter on the condensor, it wasnt reading what it should, and the points i put in worked, but not quite right. So I headed back to TSC and they must have just got in an ignition tune up set for the to-20. Changed both condensor and points and rotor button. Same thing. Runs perfect, but I get crazy high voltage on either side of the coil, whether its at the dist connection or the keyswitch. I checked for shorting between the dist. body and points connection and it checked out except of course when points are closed. New dist. cap does same thing. I cant find copper plug and coil wires, but tried others I had from the parts cabinet, no change, and the dust cap under the rotor button I tried from the old fergie thats been sleeping for a few years and nothing changed. I know this is a long post but so is the grass. Any ideas you got Id love to hear. Thanks.
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