First confirm the PCV valve and plumbing is not stopped up,,, I do not thing the seal has any thang to do with OP
Install a master OP checker gauge to confirm the light operation
I have never had any luck replacing a leak'n rear crank seal on a 4.0 so theirs a no guarantee statement noted and signed on the work order along with prepayment of the attempted replacement of the seal (this is away of run'n folks off with a worn out engine) I do recommend they find a fool that will guarantee his seal will fix the leak
Make sure the leak is not from the front of the engine,,, leaks of any kind will run down the pan rail and seam to B coming from the rear of the engine (BTDT)
Remember NO seal will retain excessive crank case pressure (blow by)
one more thang,,, the head gaskets do leak oil on the 4.0 out the right side of the engine and the oil filter adapter also (if it has a adapter) if the O/F screws directly to the block theirs no adapter,,, if its pointing to the back then their is one
Good engines but a worn out engine is a worn out engine
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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