My hat is off in salute of your efforts in trying to fix the truck brakes. I am 21 years younger than you, and due to some health problems, I do not know if I have the strength to accomplish that job anymore. It might go relatively easy, or it could be a real bear, the difference being caused mostly by amount of rust and how long it has been sitting. If it has been used within the last year, it probably won't be too bad. I am lucky in that when I get into a similar project that I find is over my current capabilities, I can call my oldest son and he will be here in a day or so to bail me out. So I don't have any great fear of tackleing the nasty jobs. If I didn't have him available, I'd be very concerned that I could easily get in over my head.
As to closing it up so you can take it to some one's shop, the only totally correct advice I can give is to have it towed. But I know that is costly. I have occasionally loosened the steel brake line where it goes into the wheel cylinder and put a correct fitting union and plug on the end of the line. Where rust of the steel line is too great to get it loose without breaking it, I have just broken or cut the line and folded it over 180* and hammered it tightly closed. This is best done where there is not so much scaly rust on the line. Knowing that it will leak somewhat, I fill the Master cylinder up and carry extra brake fluid for a slow drive to the shop.
Another solution to the problem of "no brakes" came to me when my hay loading helper and I had just finished loading a barn about midnight. My Dodge blew a steel brake line (rust!) while moving wagons in the customer's barn. Donny had his older Chev Suburban there that night. Dodge had no brakes, but Burb ran fine. So we hooked a tow strap from the back of the Dodge to the front of the Burb. I used the Dodge to pull the Burb, he let his engine idle in Neutral. When I needed to stop, I'd touch the brake pedal in the Dodge, flashing my brake lights and Donny would step on the brake pedal of the Burb, holding me back through the tow strap. At that time of night, there was no traffic and we could go slow and "gott'er done". Considering all the legal issues, I recommend a tow truck.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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