I put one in an 8N side dist. There were 2 sets of holes in the module. I had spark from the coil, but it wasn't getting through the dist. The spark was happening when the rotor was half way between each post. Tried the second set of holes and it lit right off. The directions say you need the correct amount of primary resistance in your coil. If it is too low, it will burn out the module. If I remember correctly, the coil needs to have 3 ohms of resistance. All of the Ignitors I have installed, I've used their Flamethrower coil so I know I have a compatible coil with the proper resistance. Some Fords had a ballast resistor that will need to be removed. The module needs full battery voltage on the red wire to work. On my tractors, I have opened up the spark plug gaps to .045. My Allis Chalmers CA and Oliver 60 have never started so easily, or ran so well.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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