Posted by Old Roy on June 30, 2009 at 21:20:22 from (98.17.220.85):
In Reply to: Re: For Lance ! posted by Lanse on June 30, 2009 at 20:41:17:
The combination "How big,how little" is the hardest to figure out. Don't use aluminum pulleys on the rear end they will get very hot and split.
Length of belt is a little hard to figure out if using the stock clutch peddle.
You can run a centrifical clutch.
Make you front axle adjustable so you can put more weight on the right front this keeps rear left down better. leave it adjustable don't weld because you may need to change it later depending on the dryness of the track.
Widen track , especially the rear to help stabilize on turns, I think that was to not exceed 42 "but just widen on the right side leaving the left rear where it is.
We eliminated the original seat that is in the pic after finding out the center of gravity needed to be lower, we covered a flat 3/4 plywood square and an inch of foam material and a piece of Naugahyde for the cover. then on the right side fender we put a "Chicken bar" {hand rail} to keep butt in seat.
After modifications are made if you race or want to run safer eliminate the battery you can use a jumper box or push start it . this is good not to have a battery in case of a roll over for acid on the face isn't good make a hood pin and make sure it cant come open. My Son drove the first year with a pin in his finger because the hood came open and went up over the steering wheel.
These things are dangerous !!! Be careful , check tie rods often1 Don't use the nylon style tie rod ends that some come stock with.
The exhaust you see is mandatory stock muffler to race in the pure stock class it is attached to engine by a stainless steel swimming pool ladder section.
The guards on the sides are off an old hospital bed, this keeps other wheels from getting between your tires and causing a roll over. not good especially when you have 12 other tractors competing for the same space.
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