Carbon arc is where you use DCEN for the copper clad carbon electrode. You peal back the cooper, then sharpen the carbon to a fine point then snap off the point with your thumb. You then use a silicon bronze filler rod on the metal, stick the carbon electrode on top of the filler rod until the carbon becomes cheery red, then slightly lift the carbon from filler rod and begin welding. This welding process works well for seal welding SM. About 33kpsi tensil strength.
The carbon arc process uses a piece of copper clad carbon rod in a standard SMAW electrode holder using DCEN or straight polarity.
The CU clad carbon electrode is prepared buy pealing away about 3/4" of the copper jacket then you sharpen the carbon on a bench grinder to a fine point then snap off the point "tip" of the carbon then the electrode is "stuck" on top of the filler rod then as the carbon just turns a dull red it's slightly lifted off the filler rod and the weld process begins.
Another good use of carbon arc is to soften case harden steel for drilling holes. The carbon is again stuck on the place to be drilled and after the correct heat soak time, the machine (6v battery) is disconnected from the carbon "then" the carbon electrode is removed. The hole then can be drilled very easy with any common HS drill bit as the base metal has become soft.
Here's a tip I used for making great looking welds. Clean the CU back about 3/4", sharpen the carbon to a fine point from the CU to the end, then snap off the point with your thumb, just the tip, then lay your filler rod where you want the weld then stick the carbon on top of the rod, then wait until the carbon turns red, then lift the carbon slightly until the filler rod starts to flow. Let the puddle flow to the width wanted, then move forward.
The key to a even puddle look is to keep the carbon the same distance above the filler rod. It won't make a perfect straight edge weld but close as the toe of the weld will be alittle wobbled.
As Buck stated, watch your duty cycle as it takes alot of dead short amps to start the weld process and it can ruin 20% duty cycle machine easy.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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