Its as simple a system as it gets,,, find a wiring diagram and check it out. You can direct feed the blower motor with battery power and a ground to confirm it will run,,,, should pull a tad less than 20 amps feed direct battery power,,,, if more replace it,,, high amp draw will take the blower resistor out.
The resistor has 3 wires going to it,,, one is battery power,,, one is a ground,,, and the other is from the switch side. The one from the switch side can b checked with a volt meter,,, back probe that wire and work threw the blower settings,,, low will show 2/3V’s are so,,, the next set’n witll show 4/5v’s are so,,, next 6/8 volts are so till you see battery voltage on high,,, it you are around these numbers then every thang is good up stream of the resistor
I replace the resistor, blower motor and the pig tail at the resistor (have to warranty my work) with OEM parts. if the customer declins a blower motor replacment then theirs NO Warranty (his call not mine) The motor can spike (high amp draw on start up) and take out the resistor.
Its also possible something has the blower wheel jamed up,,, you release a tab and turn the motor counter clock wise (don't hold me to it) to remove the motor,,, worth a look.
Least thay don't require dash removal to replace these parts.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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