Might be a little bigger and have it's weight distributed a little different than tractors I'm used to, I assume they all differ a little in that department.
My experience in snow, packed snow and ice, is that you really need chains for the most part.
I've had to use my tractor for snow removal and without substantial weight on the back it is absolutely useless. Ballasted rear tires, + the chunk of cast on the rear for weight, will get me through deep snow, but get on some packed snow, ice or similar, slight hill or slope, I can get away without chains, but would be much better off with them on. Conditions do vary widely when it comes to snow/ice. Thing is, you get one side of the tractor lower than the other, meaning on a slope or side hill or just a subtle change in grade, is sometimes all it takes to get one side spinning and you'll end up sliding to that side, usually making the situation worse.
If off road and you really need a good bite, V-bar type are ideal, but good ole double ring type with enough cross chains, per the tire size, think that can vary a bit, will work fine, in short, if you operate a lot in the snow/ice, more than likely you will need a good set of chains.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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