I found the unofficial dope on the attached link. It's for 2005 models.
Depending how much they beefed your suspension up as part of the HD package . . . you should be able to pull a moderate-size 5er with little problem.
Typically, you'll run out of GVWR on the truck before you exceed the GCWR. I suspect you'll have to watch your truck's weight when hitched up more closely than the trailer's weight. You'll find the individual axle ratings and the trucks GVWR (note that it's less than the sum of the two axle limits) rating on your door sticker. The trick to using a table like the one in the link is that the max trailer weight is usually determined by taking the GCWR (truck and trailer) and subtracting only the curb weight of the truck and a 150-lb driver. Add 400# of family and tools to the truck's weight, a full tank of fuel, and the weight of your 5W hitch (not figured in the curb weight) and it doesn't take long to shave most of 1000# off the size trailer in the charts.
Then, looking at the trailer and its GVWR, you have to consider how much it actually weighs, its curb weight. Add 40# or 60# for propane, and another two or three hundred for things like bicycles, coolers, food, clothes and general camping gear. (The specs on any trailer, if they give a curb weight at all, often don't include the weight of something like a generator or even - sometimes - A/C units.)
Point is if a chart like the one I linked to says you're good for a 10k trailer, you probably want to look at one rated for more like 9k just for the weight in the truck that isn't figured in, and a trailer that's rated for 9k or so but weighs more like 7500-8k as it sits actually equipped to give yourself a cushion.
Do not trust the trailer salesman on these things. They are the folks that send folks down the road with their bumpers dragging and the front tires skippingoff the ground.
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