First off, I want to state that I am a briggs certified tech. I am also certified to work on Tecumseh, Kohler, Honda, Subaru/Robin, and Wisconsin. I have been to school to be certified to work on these above mentioned engines(honda and robin were through equipment manufacturers who use these engines in their equipment). I can say beyond a shadow of a doubt that there is no way that any of these engines could run at full load and full throttle without any oil in the crankcase for that length of time without siezing up due to lack of lubrication. The lenght of time that the engine was running leads me to believe that there is some significant oil leak on the engine somewhere, the valve guides are excessively worn, or the engine is somehow burning the oil up and thus emptying the crankcase. There is obviously some underlying issue that may have led to a lack of lubrication type failure. Now, I will say that when dealing with an air cooled engine of ANY kind, always advise the customer to use 93 octane fuel in the motor. The higher octane fuel burns more completely and much faster, thus keeping the engine cooler. At a shop that I worked in, we ran two IDENTICAL briggs engines on the bench wide open with one on 93 octane and one on 87 octane. We ran the engines for 30 minutes and then used a digital temp gun to check the temperature of each engine. The engine running on 93 octane fuel ran 115 degrees cooler than the one running on 87 octane fuel. The use of 87 octane fuel (in conjunction with some plugged air fins or screens) could also contribute to the engine getting excessively hot, causing the oil to become much too thin and the oil seeping out of the engine or seeping past rings/valve guides and eventually leading to the ultimate failure of the engine. Hope that this was of some help. Kippster
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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