Chester, I did a rebuild on a MF65 last spring I tried the freeze method with little success, by freezing them it made them more brittle. What I did was to make a puller out of all thread, a draw bar, a plate to pull with and a plug. I set mine the .009" below the deck per the shop manual. The puller plate was flat the plug fit the I.D. of the block bore and a step that fit the I.D. of the sleeve. I also used a sleeve retainer made by Loc-tite you need to buy the activator for it to work properly. I used the flat plate to pull the sleeve down to the deck then I used the plug to pull it down the .009 below. You MUST make sure to have to counterbore as clean as possible and use care in setting the sleeve to the proper depth , you can still crack the flange off. Also a small square or a 1-2-3 block to check the sleeve for squareness when you start and pull the sleeve. The Loc-tite is a good indicator that you are neat the botoom of the c'bore it will push out of the recess.The Massey dealer mechanic told me there are shim availible to set them above the deck, also said they are a royal pain. Good Luck.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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