Lou, I've done that, left the other half up. In the hedgerow across the road, where our property butts up to the neighbors, the trees provide a nice privacy wall. Really healthy maple, split at the crotch one year, got that piece cut up, then another 1/3 split off, but after that, there was nothing else that would come down, completely healthy tree. I cut vertically up/down, to the partial stump and cut that at an angle to help the water run off. This maple was a thin/tight bark type, good sap too, never been tapped but was cut in late winter, I did boil up some syrup from it. I'm not sure if the tree paint that can be used where you trim limbs would help, usually rot and decay and or ants are what weaken these and black cherry, though the latter will hold on right till the end. This maple just outgrew it's ability to hold it's own weight, I see 2 more of the same genetics, looks like one could cinch a cable or a few around the weak area to prevent the split from getting bigger. Luckily, all are in places where there is nothing nearby, realizing that in some situations, no other choice but to take it down. Been a few years and the exposed area is still hard, weathered but no signs of insects or decay, remainder of the tree top is full of leaves and maintains the continuous sight line of trees, kind of glad I did it that way, hard to say what will eventually happen though.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: How to Remove a Broken Bolt - by Staff. Another neat discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "I have an aluminum steering gear housing with a bolt broken off in it. The bolt is about a 3/8" x 1 1/2" bolt. I've already drilled the center of the bolt out with about 7/64" drill bit the entire length of the bolt. Only one end of the bolt is visible. I tried to use an easy out but it wasn't budging and I didn't want t
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