My 2 cents. Screws. Color coded for your tin with a drill point unless you predrill. Hex head with washers are the best. Get the right length depending upon going into the ridge or flat. Depending upon the underlayment, you probably want at least 3/4" or more of screw into your wood plus the height of your ridge. If screwing into 2 bys then why not screw 1 1/2" into the wood. Get a cheap electric impact wrench at harbor freight or use a good 18v driver/drill. Screws bought at Fastenal or whereever.
Depends on if the old style narrow spaced or new style wider spaced corrugations. Narrow stuff probably don't give you room to screw into the valley and have the washer seal it plus the narrow stuff had stronger ridges than the newer wide stuff(although a screw with washer into the ridge may not seal a heavy rain that fills the corrugations). Narrow stuff, I'd screw the ridges. Probably still do it for the wide stuff. It is also easier to lay a hand full of sheets upside down and predrill your holes into the ridge from the bottom. When predrilling, use two sheets layed out as a jig so you get all your lap holes to line up(easier said than done but start with a couple till you get it all lined up). Then use regular tip screws and your cordless drill and you don't have to fight making the screw hole and the screw slipping off to the side.
I've noticed the newer corrugated tin is a lighter guage than the old stuff. May be part of the reason why they say not to screw the ridges since they deform so easy then they look bad from the ground. With predrilling and not bearing down on the drill and knowing when to let off the gas, you should be all right.
I've got a barn to add on to. I'm going to go ahead and spend the extra bucks to go with colored metal used on steel buildings nowadays. Then I'll convert the rest as that galvanized tin rusts like it does. The new stuff with a large flat surface, they say to screw into the flats. I'm not convinced about screws into the flats (I think they are thinking about looks more than leakage)but I'd probably go for some overkill like pumping a tube of silicone into a flat pan and dipping the screws or coating the washers with it. I'd also bet that the steel building companies just can't make their crews keep from denting ridges so it's easier to let them screw the flats. (an owner can't complain and ask them to replace sheets if the don't drill into the ridges to begin with)(more of a quality control issue)
Now would be the time to put some roll type insulation down at the roof to stop any condensation from raining down on ya.
As an aside, I'm getting ready to do some vinyl siding and I'm going to use screws for that. Just hold a guage behind the screw and pull the trigger. When I pulled the old steel siding off, those roofing nails holding it popped off like nothing.I noticed the wind blew some corrugated tin off the older side of hte barn and those nails just pulled out.
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