Did you truely hook up the main output lead(heavy wire) to a Voltmeter (or was it really an ammeter?)
If this is a Voltmeter, the internal circuit of the meter is very high resistance, and so it won't pass current to the tractor's circuits. A Voltmeter is good only as a measure of voltage between "hot" and ground. A Voltmeter might be used in this circuit if both the heavy input and output wires are connected to the same lug on the meter back. Then the other lug needs to be connected to ground. Now it measures Voltage (0 to about 15) and conducts the amperes right through the 2 heavy wires.
Now if that electrical gauge on the dash is really an Amp-meter, then one heavy lead is connected to one lug, and the other heavy lead is connected to the other lug. The current (amps) flows right through the meter with close to Zero resistance. The meter is a heavy duty conductor. The meter face will probably read -40 <0> +40, or maybe even bigger numbers. If you really have an ammeter in the dash, and the alternator is wired correctly with the activation wire coming from the run position on the key switch, then the alternator should produce current (lights bright, battery charging, etc). One quick test for this on the SI 10 is to locate a D shaped hole in the back of the alt. Inside of that hole is a metal tab that can be pushed "in" with a small screw driver blade or a nail. Push it with the engine turning at a medium idle (maybe 1000 RPM), but first turn on the headlights. The lights will look a bit yellow if the alt does not charge, but will instantly become bright white when the alt kicks in as you push the tab.
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