Ok...you ran it out of oil, yet you only replaced the rod bearings? I hope you understand that the oil lubricates things other than just the rods. If you replaced the rod bearings, but didn't have the crank ground, you're probably just fooling yourself that you actually fixed anything.
I don't know of anything to "fix" valve seals short of new valve seals...if that's even the total extent of what you damaged when you "ran out of oil." There are lots of "mechanic-in-a-can" products out there, but none I know of that will magically repair worn-out valve seals.
Do you not check oil before you start your tractor? If so, it appears you've had some sort of major oil consumption problem long before it "ran out of oil." If not, maybe you need to start doing a "pre-flight checklist," like pilots do. When I was doing commercial mowing for Pappy years back, besides making a round with the grease gun before starting out, we checked ALL "vitals"--oil, coolant, and fuel--before we ever started the engine. Maybe that's old-fashioned, steam-thresherman type routine that's no longer in vogue, but we NEVER had a lubrication-related failure.
I think you're just gonna have to bite the bullet and make necessary repairs...or else start buying oil by the drum until you can make the proper repairs.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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