If you do not have 14.3 volts when the alternator is running, the battery is not charging. At 13.6 volts a 12 volt battery is at rest. At 12.0 volts a battery is dead.
Unhook your fans and read the voltage at the battery, with the engine running. If you do not have 14.3 volts, fix the alternator. Any decent 10-SI Delco alternator will put out 100 amps. Ratings on those old analog beasties were determined by how hot they wanted to let them get. At 32 amps the alternator is cool to the touch. At 100 amps she needs a fan to keep the trio and rectifier block from melting down.
My guess is your regulator is one of those two buck auto store specials or the diodes are the ones rated for fifty imaginary amps at the south pole on winter. This is not a slight on you. It is impossible to look at components and gage quality. I ran a rebuild shop for years and people bitched about my prices. They could buy a 10-SI regulator for five bucks at an auto parts store. My regulators cost me eleven bucks before I touched them. I could buy two dollar regulators, but I did not need the headaches that came with them. Alternators today are mainly a race to the bottom because everyone looks at price. The new digital CS130 alternators are pure scrap when new.
Just remember that heat drops output of an alternator because the regulator is temperature compensated. Cheezeball diodes make heat. Heat also lowers the trio efficiency and burns the insulation on the stator. Paper insulated stators cook really fast. Make sure you run a varnished stator. Varnish insulates better and stops water decay on the laminations. To kill an alternator, just hose it down and the paper insulators on the stator laminations become conductive mush.
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