Most wind-chargers make three phase AC current that is rectified to DC inside the alternator housing. Output is usually 24 VDC or 48 VDC with the latter the most efficient. The controllers built for them require a battery bank. They use a "dump load" feature that sends out extra power once that battery bank if fully charged. That DC dump load would then have to go to an inverter to make AC current if you plan on using a conventional AC heating coil. So, to qualify for any warrantees, you'd need a 24 or 48 volt battery bank and a 24 or 48 volt inverter.
All of that is very pricey. Seems that for your purpose, you'd want a special built AC only wind-generator hooked to a heaing coil that is much bigger then any load that wind generator could ever produce.
If I was doing it (and I wouldn't use resistance heat for anything), I'd put in a system that qualifies for incentives and cut the price in half. Then make it big enough so the dump-load could run some of those electric heaters.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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