When we were in the planning stages of converting over to 100% solar electric, we did all we could to get useage down first. Not as a "green statement." More of being able to be self-sufficent. I've bought and used just about every CFL on the market over the past 15 years. General statements about them mean nothing. They vary a lot, just like tractors. They vary by brand, by design, by purpose, by price, and by quality.
Some light instantly and work fine down to 20 F below zero. Some have a long warm-up period even when inside the house. Some last years and some burn out in a week.
They all use a lot less electricity then standard filament bulbs. Whether you care or not is totally different issue.
Also note that the mercury thing is just more BS. Yes they have mercury, and so do standrd 4' twin-tube shop lights.
Years ago, I was paying $10 apiece for some of the "twisty" lights and they didn't work below 30 degrees F above.
Now, I buy 6 packs at Home Depot for $8 and they work fine in all temps. The smaller ones rated equivalent to 40 watts burn out quick and are useless. The ones rated at an equiv. 60 or 100 watts work fine. Note I'm only referring to the "Commercial Electric" brand at Home Depot. For a buck a piece, they're a good deal.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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