The cut-in is preset internally to the governor, something like 15 psi under the cut-out. All you need is a flat screwdriver and a good small crescent wrench. Once you find the air governor there is usually a rubber plug on the one end, it sticks onto the adjuster screw. Hold the screw with the screwdriver, stick the crescent on the jam nut and break it loose, turn the screw til you have it where you want it, tighten the jam nut back down. Which way is which as far as higher vs lower cut-out I don't know, I had to adjust a brand new air gov once, the jam nut wasn't tight, and about 500 miles down the road I noticed it was pushing 140PSI. But it seems to me that extra 20 psi was something like 1/4 to 3/8 or a turn of the screw.
As for checking your gauges, look around your truck for a misplaced valve stem. If you find one, check it with a known accurate air gauge.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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