Alright,I think I know whats wrong now.It probably fried the fuse box on the back side then and its not an easy job to fix it or change the fuse box.To get flashers you probably can run a wire from your hot terminal or battery to an inline fuse then a flasher.Dont even mess with the 4 way flasher,just use another one.Then you have to figure out what wire goes to the steering column from the flasher.Then unplug that wire out of the connector to the steering column(if you have a piece of wiring from another vehicle you can cut a wire with an end that you need off of it)and either hook the wire in the connector or use the wire end from another the connector and plug it back in,see if it fixes them.If that doesnt work it has to be the switch,or possibly a wire going to the switch.
Another thing is where that flasher plugs in at is hard to tell its a plug in maybe.It just looks like some slots there and if a flasher is not in it,you cant tell very easy.Also it could still be a fuse.Also you might be able to take the fuse box loose,turn it around,and see what got hot and melted.If you do that then you could solder a inline fuse holder in where it melted the fuse holder in the fuse box.Sounds easy but it might be better to change the whole fuse box than try to solder a wire in there.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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