Re: p.t.o. generator

Posted by ScottyHOMEy on December 18, 2009 at 09:39:04 from (64.222.203.155):

In Reply to: p.t.o. generator posted by mark from the fort on December 18, 2009 at 08:30:38:

Depends on your use for it. There are different manufacturer's sites online that have tables of the loads different things require that will helpyou size a generator, whichever way you might ultimately go. In sizing one you have to keep in mind two things, in my book. One is that things like furnace burners and blowers, fridges and freezers, water pumps, anything with a motor, put an extra load on the genset while they're spinning up. As you look at them, you'll see running and surge wattages. Be sure to allow for the startup surge of any motors you might have. That leads to the second point, which is to decide how much you're willing to rough it some in an outage. Basics like heat, water and food storage are a given, and can be handled with an affordable moderately-sized unit. If you add in things like electric hot water or kitchen range (clothes driers are a killer, don't even think about it unless you want to go WHOLE hog!), you can go bigger, or you can decide to switch things off. For instance, I don't heat water unless I'm going to need it. We have an electric range, and there's no notion that we're going to heat water and run the range at the same time.

Powering a house to keep the lights, heat and food storage going, I'd go with the portable, dedicated unit.

Once you've got a grip on how big it needs to be, initial price, how often/much you'll use it, and fuel consumption will be your biggest considerations. The small engines on the usual genset are sized to run efficiently as they can at half-load and will use more at higher loads. And as well as mine runs and uses fuel, it's still going to do better for fuel consumption ( a consideration if you don't have a farm tank and the regional outage includes the gas stations) than hooking up a PTO to my SuperC, which will need to run at full speed to maintain sufficient RPMs for voltage and frequency. I've been aroud both and you can hear the governor grab on either one for startup or heavy loads.

Walt mentioned switches down below, and that's another expense to be considered. There are the fancy automatic switches, that can be used with a prtable arrangement, or for a stand-by unit on a slab. The type he mentioned (what I use) works like a lockout. It mounts to the face of your breaker panel, and will be of an odd shape (unique to each make and size of panel) that prevents you from being connected to line and genset power at the same time. It requires installing a double breaker (for 240) that connects only to tan outside receptacle that accepts the generator cord. That receptacle and cord are not cheap, and need to be designed correctly. The expense of the cord is in the copper of sufficient gauge for the job and the ends. You want a male on the generator end of teh cord, and a female on the end that connects to the house. I call it a receptacle, the piece mounted to the house should be in an approved weather-shielded box and have male prongs to conduct current. The point is to NOT have any live prongs anywhere while handling the cord. If the cord is in order, the lockout or automatic switch controlling the connection on the house will keep it dead.

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