There may be some ways to prolong the enivitable but sooner or later it will need trashed but first of all I would put it on a slow charge (lowest amp rating you can achieve) for at least 24 hours or more and make sure the water level is where it needs to be after that I would do a hydrometer check with a tester that has a specific gravity chart on it and not terribly expensive at an auto parts store that will tell you the acid % in the battery. Here are the options you can buy battery acid to add to each cell to get the % where it needs to be which does not guarantee a good battery because you may have a bad cell and its toast. I use the next option and that would be to put it on charge for a couple days then take it to an auto parts store and have them do a load test with what I call a toaster and it will tell you it is bad its pretty accurate in fact that tester system is over 100years old. The rule of thumb is each cell generates 2 volts per cell which is normally per fill cap and the way DC works if you have one bad cell it will drain the battery down fast. Industrial batteries have connection terminals at each cell to check this but non commercial batteries don't. My preference is the toaster and you're good besides that they can dispose of the old battery no charge. My two cents CT. PS if you want to preserve your new battery and have to add water always use distilled water.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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