Posted by Paul from MI on December 20, 2009 at 07:19:35 from (208.102.62.64):
In Reply to: crankshalf end play posted by jana on December 19, 2009 at 19:46:16:
I'm sure you are going to get a lot of different advice on this one. Check the archives, but in a nutshell you need to move the flywheel in on the crankshaft. Couple of things to check first. Is it slinging oil from behind the flywheel, if so you need to replace the cork seal in the oil slinger. Is the slot in the oil slinger and the drive pin in the flywheel in good condition? if not the slot can be remachined and the pin replaced. I assume before we even started that the flywheel has not become loose and worked part way off the crank, rather was not installed correctly in the beginning. If this is not true you probably are looking at some major repair/replacement to crank and flywheel to get back to good tight splines that will hold the flywheel in place. There should be a locator pin on the crankshaft spline that must go into the deepest spline in the flywheel. If not you will have major vibration problems, since you don't mention that I assume it is now on in the correct spline. You can paint mark the flywheel and crank just to be sure before you dis-assemble anything. Two common problems that keep flywheels from going all the way on are not getting the oil slinger slot lined up with the flywheel dive pin and not biasing the crankshaft to the left when installing the flywheel. I usually remove the pulley cover and use a bottle jack from the right wheel to push the crankshaft to the left. The crankshaft should be at least flush with the face of the flywheel, if not something is not correct. The proper end play is .005-.010". You should NOT need locktite or anything else to keep it tight if the splines are in good condition, besides you might be the guy who has to take it off in the future. I would recommend new grade 8 bolts and nuts if you can get them. Don't use the common hardware store stuff, this is a critical application. Good luck with it. Paul
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